In the vibrant 1980s, amid the backdrop of Thatcherism in the UK and Reaganomics in the US, a group of flamboyant young creatives, including performance artist and style icon Leigh Bowery, ignited a bizarre yet influential movement within London’s club scene. Their audacious performances and extraordinary costumes not only defied societal norms but also gave birth to a subculture that celebrated hedonism and self-expression. A new exhibition, Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of Leigh Bowery’s 1980s London, at the Fashion and Textile Museum, pays homage to this era, showcasing Bowery’s transformative influence on fashion and art.
The decade was characterized by a cultural melting pot where Generation X came of age, with MTV showcasing emerging talents like Madonna and Prince. Amid street protests, the consumerist anthem “Greed is good” echoed in the film Wall Street, while Joan Collins’ ever-expanding shoulder pads in Dynasty epitomized the era’s excess. In this tumultuous environment, Bowery and his fellow “fashion renegades” thrived, pushing the boundaries of creativity and personal expression.
Holly Johnson, lead singer of Frankie Goes to Hollywood, reflects on the stylistic influences of the time, citing icons like Marc Bolan and David Bowie as pivotal inspirations for their theatrical looks. The Blitz Kids, as they became known, frequented clubs like the Blitz Wine Bar in Covent Garden, where they showcased their self-made outfits, drawn from London’s eclectic Kensington Market. Co-curator NJ Stevenson notes the importance of the physical experience of nightlife in London, where individuals sought to reinvent themselves and create their own destinies.
Bowery, who moved to London from Australia in 1980, quickly became the center of attention with his outrageous outfits and imaginative makeup. His artistic collaborations, including performances with choreographer Michael Clark, showcased his commitment to shock and creativity. One of his most notorious performances involved a simulated birth, highlighting his ability to provoke strong reactions from audiences. Bowery’s legacy remains influential, as evidenced by upcoming exhibitions, including one at Tate Modern that will further explore his impact on contemporary fashion icons like Lady Gaga and Alexander McQueen.
The Outlaws exhibition not only chronicles Bowery’s life but also celebrates the broader cultural landscape of the 1980s, emphasizing the unique synergy of fashion, art, and music that defined the time. As co-curator Martin Green explains, the era was marked by an “incredibly creative force,” with every night out feeling like a new fashion parade.
As the exhibition opens, it prompts reflections on how subcultures have evolved in the digital age, with co-curator Martin Green suggesting that today’s youth culture lacks the same underground vibrancy that characterized the 1980s. While fashion today may focus on environmental sustainability and societal change, the aesthetic audacity and experimental spirit of the past remain an enduring source of inspiration.
Outlaws: Fashion Renegades of 80s London runs from October 4 to March 9, 2025, at the Fashion and Textile Museum in London, offering a nostalgic glimpse into a time when self-expression and rebellion were paramount in shaping the cultural landscape.
